The journey commences. After an hour of battling traffic we depart Nairobi on our way to northern Kenya.
Our first stop is Samburu Nature Reserve, and we game drive our way to the campsite taking in the elephants, giraffes, zebras and buffalo. We take a break in the middle of the day and hang out at the game lodge. Unfortunately here the truck may be assaulted by monkeys while you’re out looking for wildlife. Our afternoon drive takes us to paths less travelled and we find ourselves dodging acacia branches, more than spotting the animals. We camp overnight in the nature reserve and after an early breakfast avoiding the baboons, we are ready to take on the roads to the Ethiopian border.
We have a 2 day drive to reach the border and the northern part of Kenya proves to be very dry and dusty, and we cross into Ethiopia looking forward to a shower.
Arriving in Ethiopia, the change in scenery is dramatic. From the dry and dusty dirt roads of northern Kenya, we find ourselves driving through mountains and greenery. We also have a change in the temperature – with the mountains comes the colder weather and we are wearing the winter woolies in no time.
We are waved through the villages with lots of greetings of “you, you” - the common greeting for “farangi” (foreigners) in Ethiopia. We spend our first night in Ethiopia in Yabelo, where we get a long-awaited and (after the dusty roads of northern Kenya) much-needed shower. Cleaned up we get to sample our first taste of injera, a pancake-like substance which is the basis for most meals in Ethiopia.
Leaving Yabelo we head north, taking in the Rift Valley lakes of Awasa and Ziway. Maybe take a row on Lake Ziway in search of the famous island monasteries (one of which supposedly at one time housed the Ark of the Covenant) and take in some of the local birdlife, or maybe head off to discover your inner cowboy/cowgirl and travel to Dodola, where you can trek the Bale Mountains National Park on horseback.
Returning from horse riding a little sore and sorry, we leave for Addis Ababa for the next round of visas for Sudan and Egypt.
Week 2
While we wait for our visas to be processed, we take in some culture at the Ethnological and National Museums. We see the arts, crafts and history of the various tribes of Ethiopia on display at the Ethnological Museum, as well as stunning crosses, scrolls, triptychs and other religious icons. We discover the origins of humanity at the National Museum and meet “Lucy” the oldest and most complete upright skeleton unearthed to date.
We explore the streets and take in the atmosphere of Addis, rewarding ourselves with macchiatos (coffee having said to originate in Ethiopia) and pastries along the way.
WEEK 3 & 4
Leaving Addis with visas in hand we drive through the mountainous terrain of northern Ethiopia. With lots of ups and downs it’s slow going, but we get to take in more of the amazing scenery on offer, and adjust to an even colder climate.
Arriving in Bahir Dar we are lakeside once again, camping on the shores of Lake Tana. Famed for its palm-trees and relaxed ambience, as well as the century-old monasteries on its waters, Lake Tana does not disappoint. Take a short boat-ride to the the Zege Peninsula, to view the famous crowns and crosses of Ura Kidane Menet, Lake Tana’s most famous and frequently visited monastery or check out the “water that smokes“ at the Blue Nile Falls (Tis Isat) and spend some time chilling out by the lake.
The next morning the group leaves early for a tour of the historical route, braving the challenges of Africa’s famed public transport. Our first destination is Lalibela, famed as Africa’s “Petra” with its medieval rock-hewn churches, crypts and grottoes. After a day of driving we stop for a late lunch in Gashena and arrive late in the afternoon. With limited time here we wander the town, sampling fresh fruit and souvenir shopping and stopping in at a Tej House, where the famed honey wine gets us buzzing!
Carved from the earth and resembling something from an Indiana Jones movie, the rock-hewn churches of Lalibela amaze. With freestanding monolithic, rock-hewn and cave-like structures we work our way through the warren of tunnels and clusters of churches, and absorb the religious treasures in the form of frescoes, murals, and the famed Lalibela cross.
After a quick local lunch, we depart for Woldia. We have a quick overnight stop in Woldia, and depart the next morning to get to Aksum, bumping around and navigating the challenges of Africa’s roads. We travel through Mekele and arrive in Aksum.
Described as one of the most important and spectacular sites in sub-Saharan Africa, Aksum’s numerous attractions are based on legend, myth and fables. First up are the stellae (obelisk) fields, filled with towering monoliths, underground tombs, ruins and inscriptions. Standing at up to 33 metres the stelae are impressive and demonstrate the skill of the masons, with most being constructed from a single block of granite. We
We quench our thirst with shai and buna (tea and coffee) and stop for souvenir shopping where woven baskets, amethyst rocks and inscribed Amharic bibles top the list of purchases. Our money spent, we resume the tour visiting the Queen of Sheba’s bath and palace, the St Mary of Zion complex with its old and new churches, museum and chapel (said to house the very guarded and unseen Ark of the Covenant), and trek through the local crop fields to see the Lioness of Gobedra.
With the sights of Aksum covered, we are back on the road through Shire for Gonder. We have breathtaking views as we drive through the Simian Mountains, reaching heights of 3250 metres. We arrive in Gonder late afternoon.
We spend a day in Gonder with a whirlwind tour of the sights. We visit the palaces and castles of Ethiopia’s rulers at the Royal Enclosure, marveling at the intricacies of the 104 cherubs whose faces adorn the Debra Behrman Selassi Church, and stopping at Kuskuam, where the skeletons of Empress Mentewab, her son and grandson can be viewed in their glass-topped crypt.
We depart Gonder the next day, with our final night in Ethiopia in sight. We are back to bush camping. We leave early the next morning, saying goodbye to Ethiopia and welcome to the dry heat of Sudan.
WEEK 5
Crossing the border into Sudan we are back in the heat.
We drive through to Khartoum the next day and meet with our guide, who comes from the nicest, most welcoming family in the whole of Africa. Not only does he prove to be a godsend in helping us navigate our way through the registrations and permits we need for Sudan, but he becomes our official translator, tour guide and information source for everything we need to know about Khartoum.
Visiting the sites in Khartoum, we stop at the National Museum which reveals the many well-preserved treasures of Sudan, including pottery, carvings and many Egyptian-influenced artifacts. The museum also features many religious frescoes and murals, depicting the influence of Christianity on Sudanese life.
We stop to see the other significant attraction in Khartoum - the Confluence of the Nile, where the Blue Nile and the White Nile meet. With good rains it is said you can see where the two rivers meet!
Leaving Khartoum, we have early starts and hot, dusty drive days, trying to avoid the hottest part of the day wherever possible. We take in the sights along the way, stopping at the pyramids of the Royal Cemetery of Meroe.
We stop and meet the locals in Atbara and Karima, where the warmth and friendliness of the Sudanese people is evident – everyone is extremely welcoming.
We stop at Jebel Barkal, the “holy” mountain, visiting more pyramids and the Temple of Mut, dedicated to the Egyptian sky goddess.
WEEK 6
We have more drive days, following the Nile through to Wadi Halfa. The palm trees along the river offer a respite from the heat of the day, and we stop on most afternoons as it is too hot to drive.
Arriving in Wadi Halfa we are met by our guide who takes us under his wing, and becomes our family in Wadi Halfa. We have been invited to stay with his family in the past, where we are treated to the most amazing kindness and generosity we have experienced in all our travels in Africa.
After a time in Wadi Halfa the truck heads off on the ferry, we follow the next day on the passenger ferry crossing Lake Nasser and on our way to Egypt.
We cross from Sudan to Egypt via Lake Nasser on the overnight passenger ferry. Upgrade to cabins and air-con. Arriving in Egyptian waters, we get a great view of the sunset and as darkness falls we get our first glimpse of the illuminated statues of the gods that guard the Great Temple of Abu Simbel.
Arriving in Aswan the next morning we are ready to tackle Egypt head on, after clearing customs, we are finally allowed to disembark and officially arrive in Egypt. We find our hotel and settle in – with views overlooking the Nile and a rooftop pool, as well as the local markets at our doorstep, we now find ourselves feeling more like tourists than overlanders but no one is complaining!
We depart at 3am the next morning in convoy to Abu Simbel to visit the enormous temples built by Ramses II. The temples were originally carved into the mountainside that now resides underneath Lake Nasser. The Great Temple, flanked by four 65-foot tall gods that guard the entrance, is dedicated to the gods Ra, Amun, Ptah and Ramses II in his godlike form. You will be amazed at the sheer size of the temple, with its halls and sanctuaries, and get your first look at true Egyptian hieroglyphics depicting significant moments in the rule of Ramses II. The smaller temple at Abu Simbel is no less impressive, and was built as a dedication to Queen Nefertari, the wife and chief Queen of Ramses II. At the front of this temple six rock-cut statues of Ramses II and Queen Nefertari are prominent, surrounded by some of their children. The temple, dedicated to Hathor (the goddess of love, beauty, music, and dancing) also shows many decorations of the royal couple making offerings to the gods.
Back in Aswan, we make the most of our surroundings and take advantage of the pool and air conditioning to beat the heat. You can get down to some serious negotiations at the local markets, and travel in style in a caleche (a horse-drawn carriage, which requires some strong negotiation skills to haggle a good price).
Depart on a 2-day felucca trip up the Nile. With lots of lying around and drifting on the waters it’s a relaxing way to travel. Visit Kom Ombo to see the Temple of Sobek and Haroeris, dedicated to the crocodile god and falcon-headed sky god. Leaving Kom Ombo you will head for Edfu and Temple of Horus, famed for being the most completely preserved temple in Egypt. With most of the temple intact, including one of the remaining few that still has a roof, the Temple of Horus provides a good perspective of how the actual structures appeared in their time.
WEEK 7
Our next stop is Luxor, and we are ready to tackle one of Egypt’s most popular tourist destinations. Divided by the Nile into the East and West Banks, Luxor is teeming with historic monuments, combined into a modern town. We tackle the East Bank first and head to the Temples of Karnak, dedicated to the Theban gods and Egypt’s pharaohs. The site is a myriad of pylons, obelisks, sanctuaries and temples, intricately carved with hieroglyphics, some with the original colours remaining.
We pass the Temple of Luxor, and take in more amazing ruins. With pylons, columns and chapels, the temple is similar to those of Karnak but on a smaller scale, but significant for the Christian paintings in the antechamber which demonstrate the conversion of one of the chapels to a Christian church.
Crossing the Nile, we hit the West Bank. Know as the City of the Dead, the West Bank is home to temples and tombs honouring the pharaohs, queens, noblemen, artisans and workmen of Thebes. We start with the Valley of the Kings, and take a unique approach to travel by jumping on some donkeys.
With the historic sites of Luxor explored, we traipse the local souk for bargains with jewelry in the form of cartouches, rings and bracelets engraved with hieroglyphics, cushion covers, chess sets and leather goods topping the list of our haul. We also take time-out from the heat and make the most of the campsite with frequent dips in the pool.
We leave Luxor and drive up the Red Sea Coast, stopping at Safaga for a dip and our final bush camp before arriving in Egypt’s capital, Cairo.
WEEK 8
We drive into downtown Cairo and its evident instantly that we have hit the city – people, noise and traffic everywhere. As we drive through the city, we get our first glimpse of the Pyramids of Giza – an incredible sight, set against the backdrop of this modern city.
The next morning we are up early and off the see the only remaining Wonder of the Ancient World – the Pyramids of Giza. Looking down at the site from the Giza plateau you get an incredible view of the entire site, with a total of 9 pyramids and the sphinx on the eastern edge of the plateau.
We start with Khufu’s pyramid, best known as the Great Pyramid, which is the largest of all three standing at over 145 metres high. The second pyramid, which actually appears taller as it stands on a higher part of the plateau, is dedicated to the son of Khufu, Khafre. The third pyramid and the smallest on site is that of Menakaure, the grandson of Khufu, and measures only 62 metres. We can also visit the interior of the Great Pyramid and the Pyramid of Khafre, and take in the burial chambers built within these great structures.
The other highlight of the plateau is that of the Sphinx. Smaller than you would expect, but no less impressive, the Sphinx is carved entirely from one huge piece of limestone.
The group leaves Giza for downtown Cairo. With many attractions right on our doorstep we hit the Egyptian Museum containing over 100,000 relics from Egypt’s history, including the galleries of Tutankhamen which include his solid gold death mask, and his sarcophagus, as well as the Royal Mummy room which houses the bodies of some of Egypt’s most revered kings and queens. The Cairo skyline swells with numerous citadels and mosques, and the streets are clogged with shops and stalls selling more souvenirs. Why not brave the maze of streets and alleyways that make up the Khan Al-Khalili Bazaar, Cairo’s famous marketplace since the 14th century.
Hear you will be joined by some fresh faces for the final leg to Istanbul.
With only a day to explore Alexandria you’re up early, arriving mid-morning at Fort Qayt, with its imposing sandstone walls and panoramic view of the Mediterranean, the fort was built on the site of ancient Pharos lighthouse, and incorporates many of its remains. We pass Pompeys’ Pillar, the Bibliotheca Alexandria and the Roman Amphitheatre, before stopping at the catacombs of Kom al-Shoqafa, which date from the 2nd century AD. We stop for lunch and sample a seafood fare, try some pigeon, an Egyptian delicacy. We drive back to Cairo, and arrive back in time for a night out on the town.
WEEK 9
With Cairo covered, we head east to the Sinai Peninsula, travelling under the Suez Canal. We arrive at the base of Mount Sinai, famed as the place where Moses received the Ten Commandments. Take the better-marked pathway up the Steps of Repentance and arrive at the summit to take the sunrise and see the amazing vista over the surrounding peaks, don’t forget to visit the monastery of St Katherine, positioned at the base of the mountain. Stop for a photo at the Burning Bush (where Moses purportedly first spoke to God) and then pass through the Sacred Sacristy with its rare religious iconography including a 4th century translation of the bible.
From Mount Sinai we depart for Dahab, where the desert meets the waters of the Red Sea. Dahab is known for having a chilled-out atmosphere, and after less than 24 hours here, we fit right in. We plonk ourselves in Masbat amidst the restaurants, cafes, markets and the sea and make ourselves right at home with frequent seaside sheeshas, cold beers and a couple of nights on the town.
With diving as the lifeblood of tourism in Dahab, jump in early and start your diving careers during your stay with an Open Water Course, get wet at the Blue Hole, or squeezes in an Introductory dive. For the rest, there is snorkeling in Dahab Bay and at the Blue Hole, both locations offering up an array of underwater life.
WEEK 10
We leave the chilled out atmosphere behind, and head to the port for our ferry crossing to Jordan.
After battling through customs, we are herded into the passenger terminal where we spend the better part of the day before queuing again to board the ferry. Onboard at last we have a couple more hours of delay and then we are underway and sailing the Gulf of Aqaba on our way to Jordan. The ferry is relatively uneventful and after arriving in Jordan we do the obligatory customs clearance for ourselves and finally arrive at camp in the morning.
Our first day in Jordan dawns and we wake to the sun rising over the sea and make our way into town for supplies and a stroll along the corniche.
Leaving Aqaba we drive towards Wadi Rum, famed for the Seven Pillars of Wisdom written about by TE Lawrence in the book of the same name (and on which the film “Lawrence of Arabia” was based). We arrive the next morning to view the Seven Pillars of Wisdom.
We leave Wadi Rum and head to Wadi Musa (Moses’ Valley), the village surrounding the famed red-rose city of Petra. Arriving in time to take in Petra by Night, we get our first glimpse of this ancient site, lit up by 1500 candles. As we walk through the Siq we can only imagine what is in store for us the next day when we can view the site in its full glory.
We arrive at Petra early to avoid the crowds and are rewarded by an almost solitary walk through the Siq, the 1.2km canyon-like cleft cut into the rock that is the entrance to the main site (recognizable from the movie Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade). We emerge from the Siq to the stunning sight of Al-Khazneh, better known as the Treasury.
From the Treasury we move through the Outer Siq and the Street of Facades for a view of the 7000-seat theatre. We climb to the High Place of Sacrifice and take in the vista of the site before descending past the Lion monument. We pass through the Royal Tombs, and past the Palace Tombs and magnificent Urn tomb, before heading back past the theatre and retracing our steps through the Siq. After a day of walking, we reward ourselves with a cold one at the Cave Bar, built within a 2000-year old Nabataean tomb.
The next day we leave Wadi Musa and drive along the Desert Highway and take in the amazing desert-scape. We turn off the Desert Highway and are soon driving along the Dead Sea coast. As the lowest point of earth, the temperature can soon be felt so we stop off to test our buoyancy in the Dead Sea. After rinsing off the salt (very thoroughly) we camp on the shores and wake to another gorgeous sunrise.
We drive through the capital, Amman. It’s only a short stop and we are soon on our way again, and crossing the border to Syria.
WEEK 11
Crossing late in the day, we bush camp and spend our first day in Syria at the historical site of Bosra. Once the capital of the Roman province of Arabia the centerpiece of the city is the citadel built in the 2nd century AD. HHHThe theatre is surrounded by ruins and we wander through Roman baths, a monastery and a cathedral, monumental gates and colonnades, amazed that many of the structures have been adapted by the local population who now call these ruins home.
Leaving Bosra we drive to Damascus, the capital of Syria and a city of legend. Damascus thought to be the world’s oldest continually inhabited city holds its meaning in the historical significance of the Old City. Barricaded by huge stone walls, it’s a warren of alleyways comprised largely of the stalls that make up the Souq al-Hamidiyya, the main market in Damascus. One of the souq’s unique features is the bullet-ridden roof, a remnant of machine gun fire from French planes during the 1925 nationalist rebellion.
The souq opens out to a courtyard where we get our first glimpse of the Umayyad Mosque, one of the holiest mosques in the world for Muslims.
Leaving the mosque we are soon lost in the myriad of streets that make up the souq. Sample some of the goodies from the numerous sweet shops for which Syria is famed.
We have a couple of extra days holed up in Damascus, so it’s back into town for more exploration.
Back on the road we leave Damascus and drive through to Palmyra. These ancient ruins are the remains of one of the most important links on the old Silk Route. Walking down the colonnaded street the extensive restoration of the site lets you imagine how magnificent the city was in its day. High on the hill overlooking the site we take in Qala’ at ibn Maan (the Arab Castle) and then wander amongst the numerous temples on site.
From Palmyra we head west and on to Crac des Chevaliers, described as the finest castle in the world. World-heritage listed, the castle was built in 1301 and expanded by the Crusader knights into its current form which remains very well preserved. The castle is surrounded by a moat, and has 13 towers on the outside wall. We camp overnight and wake up to the site of the castle shrouded in mist – truly the stuff of fairytales.
The next morning is a fly-by of Aleppo, a sprawling city and one of Syria’s largest. From the citadel we get a commanding view of the city, and its numerous mosques and souqs of which we wander and take in the ambiance of Syria’s markets for the last time. We head to the border and have our final border crossing for the trip into Turkey.
WEEK 12
Our last country for the trip and it’s a whirlwind of activity. First stop is Goreme and the famed fairy chimneys and underground cities of Cappadocia. Cappadocia is like something from another world with its honeycomb cliffs, and columns, pyramids and mushrooms of rock. The town itself has an old world charm and we soon familiarize ourselves with the local markets and eateries.
After a full-on day of sight-seeing it’s a quiet night. Leaving Goreme it’s a long drive day to Olympos, famed for its ancient ruins, Chimaera (eternal flame) and tree-house lifestyle. Take a dip in the Med via the ancient ruins of Olympos, sea-kayaking through caves and under bridges to see the underwater ruins.
From Olympos the next stop is Oludeniz with its lagoon perched right beside the national park. One of the hot tourist spots of the Med, we make the most of the turquoise waters by taking in a boat cruise stopping at the Blue Cave, Butterfly Valley and St Nicholas Island, and taking frequent dips in the crystal clear water.
Being the tourist spot that it is, Oludinez also gives us the opportunity to catch, or to discover the wonders of a Turkish bath, massage and even a long-needed pedicure.
Clean and shiny we leave Oludinez for Selcuk and the ruins of Ephesus. On route we stop to see the white ledges of Pamukkale, the travertine pools which hang over the ledges of the plateau. From Pamakkule it’s onwards to Selcuk, the gateway to Ephesus. The ruins of Ephesus are renowned as the best-preserved classical city in the eastern Mediterranean, and you will find the Library of Celsus with its sheer size and detail the most impressive, while the Roman men’s toilets provide the best photo opportunities.
We leave Selcuk and head up the Aegean Coast towards the Gallipoli Peninsula. We do a final ferry crossing from Canakkale to Eceabat, leaving Asia behind and crossing back into Europe. Eceabat is a small waterfront town, but an ideal base to visit the battlefields of Gallipoli. Gallipoli is the backbone of the Anzac legend and touring the site is a wealth of information on the history of the Allied campaign to knock Turkey out of WW1 and open a route to Russia. We visit the war cemeteries and pay our respects to the hundreds of young men (the youngest only 14) who lost their lives at this site. We stop at Lone Pine, The Sphinx and the Nek, before walking past the last of the sunken trenches where the Allies and the Turks battled each other, in some places from a distance no greater than 8 metres apart. It is a sobering experience and we leave the site with greater understanding and regard.
From Eceabat we are on the final leg through to Istanbul and tour end.
Africa is an unpredictable continent. We do not have a fixed itinerary so please treat the information given as a guideline only. Although our information is written in good faith at the time of printing, our route may vary at any time due to weather, politics or road conditions. For an updated dossier containing a more detailed itinerary and information on visas, vaccinations, spending money, optional excursions and other useful information please contact us. Of all the trips we run this is the most likely to have a change of route due to local conditions and visa requirements.
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