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Alaska, Anchorage, Kenai Peninsula – (glaciers, whale watching, salmon fishing, Six mile creek), Kenai National Park – (moose, bears, mountain goats and other large game). Whittier, Prince William Sound, Sterling Highway, Homer, Kodiak Island, Thunderbird Falls, Eklutna Lake, Denali N.P., Fairbanks, Dalton Highway, Arctic circle, The town of Deadhorse, Elias N.P. Yukon River.
Anchorage is our meeting point and is Alaska’s only true city, but even here wild moose still chomp through suburban flower gardens and graze alongside the highways. We spend a couple of days here familiarising ourselves with our expedition vehicle and equipment before heading off into the ‘Real Alaska’.
Immediately south of Anchorage we find the Kenai Peninsula offering us glaciers, whale watching, outstanding salmon fishing and more. Adrenalin junkies get to raft the thunderous ‘Six mile creek’ and the Kenai National Park offers us abundant concentrations of moose, bears, mountain goats and other large game.
The tiny port town of Whittier is set impressively amongst mountains, glaciers and a glistening fjord from where we have the chance to explore the Prince William Sound by cruise boat or by kayak. Breaching humpback whales, pods of orcas, porpoises and sea otters are all common-place here as well as over 200 species of birds.
Following the scenic Sterling Highway we reach the laid back town of Homer and from here we take Tustumena Ferry out to Kodiak Island where over 3000 of the worlds biggest brown bears live.
We now head north for the interior heart of Alaska taking in Thunderbird Falls, Eklutna Lake and the dramatic remains of the Independence Mine along the way. A thousand lakes and tundra capped hills line our way to the wonderful Denali N.P., alive with browsing bears, lone wolves and herds of grazing moose and caribou. We base ourselves here for a few days allowing ample time to explore the magnificent hiking and biking trails on offer.
We feel that our journey through Alaska would be incomplete without a visit to the far north so we continue on to the town of Fairbanks where we prepare and provision ourselves for the Dalton Highway. This desolate road will take us into the arctic circle and up to the town of Deadhorse where the brave can take a refreshing swim in the arctic ocean.
Returning to the south we visit the Wrangell-St. Elias N.P. where the stunning landscape of high peaks, dizzying canyons, enormous glaciers, wild rivers, icy-cold lakes and steaming volcanos make this a dramatic area to explore.
Moving towards the Canadian border we find the quirky settlement of Chicken. Fewer than 20 people reside here but travellers are well catered for at their infamous bar.
Eagle, our next stop, is situated on the banks of the Yukon River and is a lively little town catering mainly to prospectors and trappers. The occasional tourists are delighted by this remnant of the 20th century.
The Top of the World Highway now takes us east to Canada.
Week 3: CANADA and ALASKA
Dawson City, The Klondike Highway, Whitehorse, Alaska’s south-east, Skagway, Chilkoot Trail, White Pass, Glacier Bay N.P., Juneau, Prince of Wales Island and Ketchikan.
Dawson City, made famous by the Klondike Gold Rush, remains evocative of it’s past and is well worth exploring. The Klondike Highway takes us along a wonderful road running through almost utter wilderness and on to Whitehorse, a bustling town and great place to re-provision ourselves before returning to Alaska’s south-east and basing ourselves in the picturesque town of Skagway.
From here you can undertake the 3 day Chilkoot Trail which leads you through a giant wilderness museum tracing the steps of the Klondike bound prospectors. We return to Skagway via the White Pass and Yukon Route Railway, undoubtedly the most stately way to see the dazzling scenery hereabouts.
Our vehicle must now return to Canada in order to continue south but for those who are keen to explore this area further you may want to utilise the ferry service to work your way down through the beautiful islands of this archipelago. This will give you time to visit Glacier Bay N.P., Juneau, Prince of Wales Island and Ketchikan.
Watson lake, Cassiar Highway, Stewart, Hyder (pop. 70), Skeena Valley, Canadian Rockies, Jasper N.P. Yoho, Banff and Kootenay, Vancouver, Vancouver Island.
For those of us who opt to stay on our truck we re-join the Alaska Highway and continue to Watson lake where the Cassiar Highway takes us south through some of the wildest and most beautiful scenery yet.
We veer off the highway for Stewart where more mountains and glaciers welcome back those from the ferry journey. The Friendliest Little Ghost Town of Hyder (pop. 70) is close by and a great place to enjoy the locals tales at their world famous bar.
The glorious river and mountain landscapes of the Skeena Valley now take us south towards the Canadian Rockies. Jasper N.P. offers us wonderful hiking and stunning bush camping alongside the worlds 2nd largest glacier fed lake, Maligne.
We now follow a series of National Parks south. Yoho, Banff and Kootenay are all good for rafting, kayaking, fishing, wildlife viewing, walking and hot springs.
We now head west for a glorious taste of civilisation in Vancouver. The wonderful setting between sea and mountains offers it's visitors pleasure and leisure, and the beautiful Vancouver Island is only a short ferry ride away.
Washington state, Bellingham, Seattle, Mt. Ranier N.P., the Cascade’s, St. Helens volcano, Yakima Valley, Walla Walla, Oregon State, Hells Canyon National Recreation Area, Snake River, Idaho State, Montana, Frank Church River, No Return Wilderness Area, Salmon River rapids, Wyoming, Yellowstone N.P., Idaho, Logan Canyon, Antelope Island, Great Salt Lake of Utah, Salt Lake City, Bryce Canyon N.P., Arizona, Grand Canyon, Colorado River, Hoover Dam, Nevada, Las Vegas, Mojave desert, California, Los Angeles, Hollywood, Beverly Hills, Venice, Santa Monica and Long Beach, Pacific coast highway, San Diego, USA.
We enter in the state of Washington and pass through the old port city of Bellingham before basing ourselves in Seattle to explore this wonderful city and it’s surrounds. This home of grunge music is not only famous for Pearl Jam but also for it’s magnificent setting on a small isthmus of land between two bodies of water which have plenty of islands worth visiting.
South of Seattle we visit Mt. Ranier N.P., the Cascade’s highest peak. The popular climb through lush forests and alpine meadows to reach the top (14,411 ft.) is a great 2 day hike for the adventurous.
A little further on we reach Mt. St. Helens where 20 years ago this volcano erupted levelling hundreds of square miles of forest. The area is slowly recovering but it is amazing to see this volcano-wracked wilderness.
Moving east we pass through the rugged and dramatic landscape of the Yakima Valley with it’s numerous wineries before visiting the historic town of Walla Walla, site of the 1847 massacre at the Whitman Mission.
Dropping down into the state of Oregon we explore Hells Canyon National Recreation Area. At nearly 8000ft deep this is the deepest canyon in North America and the Snake River has been flowing through it since the beginning of time. Jet boat tours through the canyon are awesome!
Crossing into Idaho and then Montana we reach the Frank Church River Of No Return Wilderness Area where the die-hard rafters get to tackle the Salmon River rapids. This area is also renowned for good fishing, accessible hikes and hot springs.
Continuing on we enter Wyoming and the Yellowstone N.P. via a hidden gateway, an isolated entrance to an area of the park much less commercialised. This route leads us to a back-country paradise that is home to more than half the park’s waterfalls and is prime Grizzly country. This park also accommodates more than half the worlds geysers which put on an amazing display.
We now take the scenic route through Idaho, past Bear Lake and through the Logan Canyon before reaching Antelope Island in the Great Salt Lake of Utah. The islands red sand dunes and rocky ridges are home to wild bison and the lakes mineral rich waters offer a very buoyant swim.
Salt Lake City, the Mormon’s H.Q., offers us a good insight into the way of life around here and also the possibility of catching a Utah Jazz basketball game.
We continue south along the scenic central corridor and reach the fabulous Bryce Canyon N.P. Hiking through the canyons and Grand Staircases (a series of step-like uplifted rock layers) is amazing with pink cliff formations, wondrous pinnacles and points, steeples and spires, cliffs and crevices and odd formations known as hoodoos all well worth exploring.
Crossing into Arizona we arrive at the Grand Canyon and spend a couple of days marvelling at this massive slice carved into the desert floor. The multi-coloured rocks and cliffs are best appreciated by hiking along the canyon floor alongside the Colorado River and the huge white-water is a tempting outing for brave rafters.
On our way to Las Vegas we have the chance to visit the Hoover Dam where we can take a fascinating tour through one of the world’s tallest dams.
A short drive away we enter Nevada and reach the gambling capital of the world, Las Vegas. Whether you gamble or not, this city is an oasis of bright lights that should not be missed.
The Mojave desert is our home for a few days as we snake our way into California on our way to Los Angeles. Here we have a few days to indulge ourselves and explore Hollywood, Beverly Hills, Venice, Santa Monica and Long Beach. This is a city that never sleeps and there is always something happening!
Following the Pacific coast highway we continue south to San Diego, our last stop in the USA. This town is a great place to enjoy the laid-back California lifestyle with plenty of sights and wonderful beaches.
Tijuana, Mexico, Baja California Peninsula, La Paz, Los Mochis, Chihuahua, Sierra Madre, Copper Canyon, Mazatlan, Durango Island, Zacatecas, Rio Gomez, Dolores Hidalgo, San Miguel de Allende and Guanajuato, Teotihuacan, Mexico City, Aztec ruins, Puebla de los Angeles, Cholula’s man-made pyramid, Oaxaca, Monte Alban Ruins, San Cristobal de las Casas, Sumidero Canyon, Palenque, Yucatan Peninsula, Cancun, ruins of Edzna, Chichen Itza, Uxmal and Tumul, head for Belize.
Tijuana, Mexico’s border town, is just that, with every virtue and vice that it implies. Anything goes here and it is our gateway to one of Mexico’s most beautiful drives, highway 1 along the Baja California Peninsula, a narrow strip of land with rugged mountains and long stretches of empty shoreline.
Our 4x4 expedition vehicle is put to the test as we go off-road along punishing desert tracks in order to reach the peninsula’s real attractions of isolated beaches, prehistoric cave paintings, excellent fishing and snorkelling and some great surfing spots.
From La Paz in the southern part of the peninsula we now take a ferry over to Los Mochis and the beginning of an epic train journey.
The famous Chihuahua al Pacifico train takes you through the spectacular scenery of the Sierra Madre and Copper Canyon before reaching the small town of Creel where you have a couple of days to explore the area.
We continue hugging the coast down to Mazatlan before heading inland to Durango along winding roads with vertical sided canyons. We now discover the beautiful colonial heartland of Mexico and pass through numerous sleepy towns en-route to the pleasant and lively town of Zacatecas. Close by churches, convents and ruins make great day outings.
The fertile plains of the Rio Gomez lead us to the attractive colonial towns of Dolores Hidalgo, San Miguel de Allende and Guanajuato set amid wild and striking scenery.
The ruins of Teotihuacan are our next stop and are mysterious relics of an ancient civilisation. This site also contains the worlds 3rd largest Pyramid.
From ancient to modern we now reach the capital, Mexico City. This busy metropolis pulsates with energy and is well worth a few days exploration. The Aztec ruins surrounding the city make great day outings.
Moving eastwards we visit one of Mexico’s oldest and most friendly towns, Puebla de los Angeles, from where we can explore the underground labyrinths in Cholula’s man-made pyramid.
Cactus-filled valleys and wide open plains lead us to the charming city Oaxaca, a mixture of colonial glory and indigenous market-places. This world heritage site is crammed full of culture with wonderful museums, churches and markets. The surrounding area offers inspiring archaeology in the form of the Monte Alban Ruins, featuring pyramids, walls, terraces, tombs, staircases and sculptures, all remnants of the ancient capital of the Zapotec culture.
The world’s largest tree is on our route into the Chiapas Highlands where the charming town of San Cristobal de las Casas blends into a magnificent landscape with the Sumidero Canyon close by. Wonderful walks and thrilling boat rides give you the chance to pass by several waterfalls, enter caves and even pass by some quite large crocodiles.
We continue on to Palenque, perhaps the most beautiful of all the Maya ruins in Mexico. Set amongst lush jungle the ruins are a warren of exploration and will keep your camera busy all day.
We now head for the stunning white-sand beaches and scattered Maya ruins of the Yucatan Peninsula. Glorious seafood feasts and lazy days next to the turquoise sea in Cancun fill our days between visiting the wonderful ruins of Edzna, Chichen Itza, Uxmal and Tumul.
Our Mexican adventure over we now head for Belize.
Belize, Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary, Belize City, Caribbean-style island cays, San Ignacio, Maya ruins of Caracol.
We enter this small country from the north and our first stop is at the Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary, a premier birding site which is also home to crocodiles, iguanas, turtles, coatis and howler monkeys.
Belize City will be our next base giving us ample time to explore the beautiful Caribbean-style island cayes just offshore. This is a fantastic spot for diving and fishing and the close-by baboon sanctuary makes for a great day outing too.
Moving inland we find wonderful sanctuary’s protecting the native jaguar, snakes, monkeys, crocodiles, tapirs and more.
San Ignacio is our last stop in Belize from where it is possible to canoe out to the vast cave systems in the area and also make a trip out to the Maya ruins of Caracol.
Guatemala, Flores, Lake Peten Itza, Texla ruins, Tikal (Mayan skyscrapers poking through the jungle canopy), Coban, Chichicastenango, Lake Atitlan, Antigua, El Salvador.
We enter Guatemala in the lush lowland jungles where lost world Mayan cities and pyramids lie hidden beneath the tree canopy. Our base for exploring the area is the tiny island town of Flores in Lake Peten Itza. From here we can visit the Texla ruins in the northern jungles as well as Tikal (Mayan skyscrapers poking through the jungle canopy).
Narrow jungle roads now lead us south through beautiful scenery of sheer-sided hills and thatched roof homes. The area around Coban provides great jungle walks through National Parks, good wildlife spotting, stunning swimming lakes and fantastic cave exploration. A little further on we find the colourful market town of Chichicastenango offering some bargain buys and interesting Maya Shrines.
The central highlands now lead us to Lake Atitlan, commonly renowned for being the Most Beautiful Lake in the World. In fact, the whole area is beautiful and there are even 2 volcanoes waiting to be climbed.
Continuing east we reach the charming town of Antigua. Cobbled streets, colonial architecture and friendly faces make this a great place to chill out for a while. From here we wind our way through coffee plantations to the pacific coast and El Salvador.
Central American, Bosque el Imposible, Cerro Verde volcano, Joya de Ceren, Suchitoto, Lempa Valley, Perquin.
Crossing into this lively and perhaps most friendly of the Central American countries our first stop is at Bosque el Imposible. This national reserve hosts wonderful fauna and flora on it’s rocky slopes. Among the mammals are puma, ocelot, agouti and ant bear, with numerous bird species abounding too.
We continue on to the Cerro Verde volcano region where flowers line the roadside and lakes glisten in the sunlight. Fine volcano trekking is a popular pastime in the region.
The perfectly preserved Mayan ruins of Joya de Ceren are a worthwhile stop en-route to Suchitoto, a treasured colonial town and buzzing cultural centre with good hikes to nearby waterfalls.
Following the Lempa Valley east we pass by small towns and dramatic volcanos into the area that was disputed during the civil war. The town of Perquin was once the guerilla’s capital but is now a peaceful place with a great museum and fantastic scenery.
Gracias, Mt. Celaque, Mayan ruins of Copan, Bahia de Honduras, Puerto Cortes, La Ceiba, Bay Islands, Honduras, Nicaraguan border.
The charming colonial town of Gracias is our first stop here with the heights of Mt. Celaque a days hike away. The serene and beautiful Mayan ruins of Copan are not far off and mark the south-eastern limit of Mayan dominance.
We now head for the wonderful Bahia de Honduras and soak up the Caribbean rhythms in Puerto Cortes on the north coast.
Hugging the coast east we reach La Ceiba from where you can catch a boat out to the stunning Bay Islands. White sandy beaches, coconut palms and gentle sea breezes typify these islands and the clear waters, rich reefs and intriguing underwater caves make this an idyllic location to undertake a dive course. Actually, this is possibly the cheapest place in the world to do an open water course.
From here we now leave the coast and follow the back roads through the countryside and really get a real appreciation of Honduras’ fabulous landscapes en-route to the Nicaraguan border.
Lake Managua, Volcan Masaya, Masaya, Granada, Lake Nicaragua, volcanic Ometepe Island, San Juan Del Sur, Costa Rica.
Winding our way through coffee plantations and pine forests we skirt past Lake Managua and arrive at Volcan Masaya, one of Central America’s most active volcanoes. Situated in a National Park the area offers great hiking around 2 volcanoes, 5 craters and a beautiful lake. Close by we visit the town of Masaya, famous for it’s Indian arts & crafts and leatherwork.
Our next stop is the charming city of Granada, situated on the shores of the vast Lake Nicaragua. The city’s cobbled streets and laid-back attitude make it a great place to hang out for a while. From here we can explore the lakes volcanic Ometepe Island. The lake itself is amazing in that it is a freshwater lake full of saltwater fish. These fish exist in no other lake in the world.
San Juan Del Sur is a delightful last beach stop before arriving in Costa Rica.
Rincon de la Vieja N.P., Volcan Arenal, cloud-forest of Monteverde, Costanera, Costa Rica, Puerto Jimenez, Tortuguero beach, Panama.
We head straight for the amazing Rincon de la Vieja N.P. where toucans, armadillos, howler monkeys and coatis are just some of the abundant wildlife living in this diverse region of volcanoes, tropical forest, mud pots and hot sulphur springs.
We continue inland and marvel at the Volcan Arenal, Central America’s most active and perfectly formed volcano. Close by, the cloud-forest of Monteverde offers pleasant walking and even ‘Sky Trekking’ (flying by zip wire through the forest).
Back down on the Pacific coast we follow the Costanera and stop off at some lively little beach towns offering us a chance to learn how to surf and/or undertake a Spanish language course for a day or two.
Our last stop in Costa Rica is the laid-back town of Puerto Jimenez. From here you can explore the N.P.’s consisting of tropical rainforests, swamps and miles of empty beaches. There is also turtle spotting at Tortuguero beach.
A short drive now takes us to Panama.
Week 18 & 19: PANAMA (and break to allow shipping of our truck)
Chiroqui Highlands, Pan-American Highway, Azuero Peninsula, Panama City, Panama Canal.
We enter in the Chiroqui Highlands where white-water plummets down volcano sides, a stunning area for rafting and walking.
Following the Pan-American Highway we pass through numerous small towns and have a chance to explore the beautiful Azuero Peninsula with welcoming villages and fine beaches.
The road takes us on to Panama City, the capital, where the worlds greatest short-cut and engineering marvel, ‘The Big Ditch’ or Panama Canal is something that has to be seen to be believed.
As the road ends shortly after Panama City it is from here that we must ship our expedition vehicle to Colombia. We estimate that the shipping and customs should take about 2 weeks to complete so this is a good opportunity to have a break from our truck and head out on your own for a while. Venezuala is a popular destination during the break.
Cartagena, Santa Marta, ‘Ciudad Perdida’ (lost city), Tayrona National Park, Taganga, Medellin, Cali, Island of Gorgona, Tierradentro, San Agustin, Popayan, Ecuador.
We meet our truck at the port of Cartagena on the Caribbean coast. Legendary for both it’s outstanding beauty and fascinating history, this town really is a living museum of colonial Spanish architecture and is well worth a few days' exploration.
The surrounding area is littered with fine beaches, beautiful islands and excellent diving which we also take in before moving slightly north to the lively city of Santa Marta. From here we have the opportunity to venture off for a few days hike through lush jungle up to the incredible ‘Ciudad Perdida’ (lost city), or for the less energetic there are the white beaches of the Tayrona National Park and the diving haven of Taganga.
We now move South to the vibrant and modern city of Medellin where we have the chance to mingle with the friendly locals and enjoy civilisation for a couple of days.
Further south we reach Cali, also a wonderful city and the launch pad for anyone wanting to visit the enchanting island of Gorgona, a unique natural wonder which is home to some diverse wildlife found nowhere else on earth.
The archaeological site of Tierradentro is our next stop where an unknown civilisation carved elaborate circular tombs into the soft rock and decorated them with sculptures and paintings.
We continue on to another mysterious funeral site named San Agustin where hundreds of enigmatic stone statues lay next to the graves of a lost empire.
A spectacular and challenging road now leads us on to a perfectly preserved pearl of colonial architecture known as the White City, Popayan. This is a laid-back town where kicking back in a sidewalk café is a great way to pass the day.
A twisting turning road now takes us south to Ecuador.
Week 22 & 23: ECUADOR and optional GALAPOGAS ISLANDS
Ecuador, Otavalo, Quito, Galapogas Islands, Amazon jungle, Shangri-la Lodge, Banos, Cuenca.
Slightly north of the equator our first stop in Ecuador is the colourful market town of Otavalo where Saturday traders flock to from as far away as Colombia to ware their goods. Everything and anything can be found here including wonderful traditional crafts.
The lively city of Quito is next offering us sumptuous cuisine and great nightlife. This is also the place to arrange a trip out to the Galapogas Islands for those who are interested.
Dropping out of the Andes we enter pristine Amazon jungle and explore the rivers and tributaries by boat from our base in Coca.
The beautiful Shangri-la Lodge in Tena is our next stop with commanding views of the rainforests and river systems. Tubing, bat-caving and waterfall climbing are interesting day outings from here or just lazing in a hammock enjoying the view is acceptable.
Further up the road we reach Banos, a great little town alive with adventurous excursions. Horse riding, canyoning, mountain biking, rafting and kicking back in the hot springs fill in a couple of days here.
Moving on you now get the opportunity to ride atop the famous train that takes you through the spectacular switchbacks of the Devils Nose.
The colonial air of the town Cuenca is our well preserved last stop in Ecuador. Try the succulent Cuy (roasted guinea pig), it’s fantastic!
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