FROM SANTIAGO

Week 1  Leaving Santiago we head for the Pacific coastline and relax at a beach campsite near to La Serena for a couple of days. Rejoining the Pan American highway we enter the Atacama Desert. On our way north we stop off at a number of settlements and we also camp overnight in this barren but beautiful wilderness. Leaving the Pacific Ocean coastline we head towards the oasis town of San Pedro de Atacama.

Week 2  We spend a few days here, exploring the fantastic surrounding landscapes of the Valley of the Moon, salt lakes, as well as stone age dwellings. From the desert our ascent through the Andean passes is spectacular, with dozens of volcanic peaks all over 5000m, leading us to the attractive colonial city of Salta in Argentina. From here we venture into Bolivia where you will notice the difference as paved roads become non-existent and locals still follow tradition, wearing bright woollen clothes and bowler hats.

Quite a contrast is the shimmering white Uyuni Salt Lake. Taking a 1 day trip out onto the largest salt flats in the world with no road and only vague tracks to follow makes for an unforgettable experience.

Week 3  Continuing north we arrive in Potosi. At over 4000m, it is the highest city of its size in the world and 400 years ago it was the largest city in all the Americas. Vast amounts of silver were extracted from Potosi and shipped to Spain. There are tours to the mines and it is still clear to see that unfortunately, working conditions here have hardly improved over the centuries. The adventurous among us will appreciate the opportunity to go down one of these mines with a local guide. Visiting the ancient mint or having a tour around the Casa Nacional de Moneda (National Money House) also provides a good look into Potosi’s and Bolivia’s past. The history and past colonial splendour make Potosi a fascinating place to visit.

A tortuous drive across the Altiplano, where Aymara and Quechua Indians scrape a sparse living from their small plots of land in this harsh climate, brings us to La Paz. The highest capital city in the world, it is built on a steep slope that falls away from the Altiplano. The top of the city is about 2000ft above the bottom part. Unusually, all the rich suburbs are in the lower city area because the air is thicker with oxygen lower down. La Paz is a great place to visit a ‘pena’ club, where live bands entertain us with Andean folk music.

Week 4  Leaving La Paz we head to Puno in Peru. Nestling on the shores of Lake Titicaca it is a friendly, well-kept place and much calmer than the hustle and bustle of La Paz. Lake Titicaca is the world’s highest navigable lake at 3800m, it is also the original place of the Uros Indians who have made their homes on floating reed islands. By boat we visit the floating islands during the day and then we go that one step beyond the average and spend the night with one of the Indian families on the lesser known islands Isla Amantani or Taquile. Spending some time in these local communities will provide a unique opportunity to learn more about the traditional lifestyle of the Andean people and their customs.

From Lake Titicaca we now have to face some fairly arduous roads as we make our way to Cuzco, the outdoors capital of Peru and our base for the next 6 days. This gives us enough time to hike the 2 or 4 day Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, enjoy the architectural uniqueness of Cuzco and explore some of the colourful surrounding markets. Many believe that Machu Picchu itself cannot be understood without following the steps of the Incas on the Inca Trail.

Week 5  From Cuzco we head west, passing herds of llama, alpacas and unspoilt Andean villages as we head towards the world’s deepest canyon. Twice as deep as the Grand Canyon, Colca Canyon is an awesome spectacle. Here you have the option, accompanied by a local guide, of a one day excursion to view Condors circling lazily on the thermals rising from the canyon floor. From here we begin dropping down out of the Andes as we head to Arequipa, a beautiful colonial city set at the foot of the impressive El Misti Volcano.

Puerto Inca, the ancient Inca port for Cuzco is our next destination and an interesting place to camp on the beach and relax for a couple of days. We now travel to one of the world’s great archaeological mysteries – The Nazca Lines. These huge figures and shapes, carved into the stony desert are best viewed from the air. Thought to have been made by three different groups of people going back more than 2000 years, there are many different theories and books about what they signify and why they are there. Following the Coastal Highway, the Ballestas Islands in the Paracas National Reserve is our next stop. Here we take a boat trip to view one of the most important marine reserves in the world with one of the highest concentrations of rare and exotic sea birds and sea mammals. Further up the coast is Peru’s capital city, Lima.